In deciding on finishes for our products, we had seemingly endless choices with varying results.  Being rooted strongly in colonial style products, we want to offer choices available in the 18th century to achieve a look as close as possible to an original piece.  However, for some items, it just makes better sense to use more modern alternatives.  (It's like using a candle at night instead of a lamp just because that's the way it used to be done.  Sometimes it just doesn't make sense.)  So, here's the breakdown of how we finish different types of products.  If you want a particular finish applied, let us know.  Unless it's an unusual finish, there won't be an extra charge.

For our painted mini clocks, we use acrylic craft paints for the design and stenciling work, and 2 polyurethane top coats in semi-gloss finish for durability.  We've found that these little clocks get knocked around a bit and that the polyurethane protects the finishes and prevents marring and scratches.  This finish requires little to no maintenance.

For any of our clocks labeled as "Naturals" or "Natural Finish", we use 2 coats of polyurethane in a semi-gloss finish on the item.  This provides durability and brings out the color and figure of the grain of the wood quite well.  This finish requires little to no maintenance.

For any of our stained finish items, we first apply a coat of Minwax stain to the item.  We then apply two coats of polyurethane semi-gloss top coat for durablity.  This provides a durable, long lasting finish.  This finish requires little to no maintenance.

Our milk paint finish is our most complex, but also our most durable, authentic-looking finish.  We start by applying a base coat of either a Minwax stain or a contrasting milk paint color.  This coat will show through in places where the item is distressed later in the finishing process.  Next, we apply the first coat of milk paint in the color you've chosen.  The item is then sanded thoroughly and a second milk paint color coat applied.  At this point, we "age" the piece by applying a dark wiping stain which darkens the finish and is intended to enrich the patina of the piece.  The item is now distressed to give it an appearance of having been used for years.  The item is now protected with an extremely durable finish.  However, milk paint that has not been topcoated offers no resistance to stains or water spots.  Because of this, we then apply two coats of wipe-on polyurethane to seal the milk paint and provide scratch and mar resistance.  This finish requires little to no maintenance.

Milk Paint Color Chart

Barn Red

Salem Red

  NEW!  Salmon

Pumpkin

Marigold Yellow

Mustard

Bayberry Green

Tavern Green

Lexington Green

Sea Green

Federal Blue

Soldier Blue

Slate

Pitch Black

  NEW!  Driftwood

  NEW!  Chocolate Brown

Buttermilk

  NEW!  Light Cream

Oyster White

Snow White

For items, especially our furniture pieces, you may want a more traditional finish than modern polyurethane.  In this case, we will stain or paint your item as described above.  But instead of polyurethane as a top coat, we recommend a linseed oil finish.  Linseed oil is a penetrating finish that absorbs into the wood and hardens forming a protective layer.  It's not as durable as a polyurethane or laquer, but it gives pieces a low luster that ages beautifully.  If you would like a piece finished in linseed oil, or some other finish of your choosing, indicate your choice when you order either in the comments area of the online order process or in writing or by phone.  Allow an extra week for delivery for this type of finish.

Milk Paint

Milk paint is one of our favorite finishes because it is safe & non-toxic both during application and once the finish is dry.  Made from milk protein, lime and earth pigments, it's a finish used by colonial furniture makers because of it's readily available ingredients.  Items available in these colors will be designated on their order pages.  If you would like another item finished in one of these colors, email us.  For more on milk paint, go to www.milkpaint.com

Polyurethane

Polyurethane is a type of plastic coating.  Coating is important because this product doesn't penetrate the wood, but forms a protective plastic shell around the piece.  It is very durable (if you have hard wood floors, you probably have polyurethane on them) and is resistant to most spills and stains.  Drawbacks are that it's not a historical finish and it is more difficult to repair than an oil finish.

Oil Stains

Oil stains penetrate the wood, bringing an evenness of color and are semi-transparent meaning that the grain is not hidden from view like with a paint.  Oil stains are generally a first coat, and a top coat of some form is required to provide protection.

Linseed Oil

An optional top coat we provide, linseed oil is a traditional oil finish obtained from the flax seed.  We use boiled linseed oil which dries quicker (2-3 days) than raw linseed oil.  This finish penetrates the wood and offers good protection.  It can be repaired much more easily than polyurethane by applying more oil to the damaged area.  Durability is not the best, but if you're looking for a more traditional finish, this may be just the thing.  Waxing helps this finish age beautifully.